Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Nice is NICE!

Just got back from 4 wonderful days in Nice, France on the French Riviera. I visited my friend (and former hairdresser) Lauri, who was spending a month there to immerse herself in the French language and culture. At the end of the summer, Lauri heads off to Morocco to begin her Peace Corps volunteer assignment. Lauri had the good fortune to meet up with Fabrice, a native of Nice (well, he corrected me and said he's not really a "native" since he was born in Paris, but he's lived there since he was 2, so I say he's a "native"). 

On my night of arrival, after Fabrice and Lauri picked me up at the train station, and after we dropped off a nun who had been waiting at the train station but never got picked up, we went to see Fabrice's boyfriend, Gabriel and he had a delicious dinner waiting for us. We ate al fresco, on the deck of Gabriel's apartment overlooking old Nice and the harbor.  Oh la la !

A very telling start for such a fantastic visit!




First I would like to take a moment to talk about French men. I continue to be amazed and amused by the differences between French and American men- men like my dear husband, Dave. Big, tough, burly French men will drink pints of beer and laugh heartily with their friends; they hoist boat anchors or lug heavy bags of cement or huge bundles of fish nets. They'll grab a fish's guts and hurl into a bucket without batting an eye. They very much resemble the rugged men of America. BUT then these French men stop at an outdoor cafe to have an espresso, holding the cup with their fingers, as they cross their legs and sit under an umbrella. If there is too much of a breeze they wrap a cotton scarf around their necks - one that usually matches their outfit or the color of their eyes, perfectly. They'll ride a motorcycle to work but carry a tiny terrier or miniature poodle in their jacket to keep them company. They smoke like chimneys but enjoy the delicate flavor of rose wine, perfectly chilled. I just love what are for me such surprises or paradoxes in French men. (I keep trying to get Dave to wear a scarf but he won't have any of it. )
 

Can you see the doggie in his jacket???


Here is the entry to a beautiful beach in a small town called Eze "ehz", just about 20 minutes east of Nice. Lauri treated us all to a day at this private beach where you pay a fee but enjoy a fantastic spot, comfy chairs, clean and comfortable (and flushing) toilets, showers, dressing rooms, and a fantastic bistro and beach-side service. If you can splurge one day I highly recommend it. There are several private beaches in the area, and one really nice one in the city of Nice as well. It's about 15 Euros per person to use the beach. Food and drinks are extra, but they were delicious and pretty reasonably priced. 




For example, you can have a delicious espresso to get you started. It's delivered to you at your chair, just the way you like it.


For lunch, you can have tuna carpaccio and salad ( I did) and it's really, really good!

For dessert, an apple tartin and vanilla bean ice cream!


You can also have lots of fun with jelly fish! They were alarmingly similar to silicon breast implants. 


Rumor has it that this is Bono's house and he's there most of the time. We never saw him or any security guards so who knows. 


I like this beach house myself. 


A water vacuuming boat. Paid for by the townships, it was cleaning up the pollen and jellyfish. 


A great invention - a paddle boat with a slide! I think my brothers should get one of those for Skaneateles Lake!


Fabrice modeling some fashion made from a single beach wrap. The possibilities were endless.


"A Sante!" – to your health! Some rose, on ice to ensure that it's adequately chilled (a must).  



I loved these lamps. They were from Bali made out of pieces of shells. 


The bistro where the food and drinks came from. You could eat on the beach, or in the restaurant. 


A drawing by a little girl on the beach. I thought it was pretty good!


A drawing of her mother - topless, of course! This is the French Riviera, afterall!



Jumping around here ... some balconies in Nice, overlooking the water. I liked getting a glimpse of how people lived and used their balcony spaces. 


A church of Santa Rita. Famous because people make a pilgrimage here to bring a rose and ask for a miracle from Santa Rita. We happened to be there on the day of the annual festival for Santa Rita. 


A view of Nice, from the top of a hotel in the city. 


Having an apertif with Fabrice and his mom. 


Fabrice and his boyfriend, Gabrielle, at lunch, near the harbor. 


THis was an amazing art installation. it was a room filled with soil and grass growing and at night it was filled with fireflies, flying around and blinking on and off. I was there during the day only but I loved this idea. 


Some Nicoise color, arch details, etc. 



A poodle! But of course! Probably some huge, cigar-smoking, swearing-like-a-sailor construction worker owned him and called him "Jacqui". 


Walking around the "old ville". 



The beach just outside the gates of the old town. IN the distance you can see boys getting ready to jump off the platforms into the water. More photos of this later ...


Fishing boats. I was amazed by the simplicity of them, and  all of the colors!


Moon Lily, or Datura, blooming, at Night of course. The air smelled so sweet at night, full of jasmine, lilies, etc. 





Looking down on the beach from "the Rock" where the old fortress stood, before Louis IX tore it down, or something like that. 


Boys jumping into the sea ...






My favorite thing is this color of the water!!! 


I also love how it changes to deep navy blue, when you get out deeper. 


One day we went scuba diving. I did an introductory "baptime" or baptism where you basically suit up and learn the very basics and an instructor straps a tank to you and guides you around in shallower waters. It was really fun. 


Fabrice!


Lauri!


Me and Lauri, before jumping in. Those wet suits were tight!!!

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